EXPEDITION “MIKLOUHO-MACLAY. XXI CENTURY. MACLAY COAST” 2019
In April this year, will start another research expedition to the Maclay Coast (Rai Coast), North-East of the New Guinea Island. The participants will have a deeper study of the various aspects of culture of the local residents – Papuans. What prompted the head of the Foundation, the great-great-grandnephew, to go again in this not a simple expedition with a team of scientists and documentary filmmakers?
Goal -Establishment of cultural, scientific, humanitarian and business cooperation between Russia and Papua New Guinea.
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 21- 22 april
[icon type=»icon-location»]Departure from Moscow
The expedition, which goal is the establishment of cultural, scientific, humanitarian and business cooperation between Russia and Papua New Guinea, started!
Meet the team:
– Nickolay Miklouho-Maclay — the descendant of the traveler, the Miklouho-Maclay Foundation Director, expedition leader.
– Igor Chininov — research fellow of the Institute of Anthropology and Ethnography of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Within the expedition will be engaged in the collection and study of the material culture of the Maclay Coast.
– Olga Temple — linguist. Within the expedition will study the linguistics of the Maclay Coast
– Alexander Belkin – camera man.
Also, along with the team of the Miklouho-Maclay Foundation, the TV channel “RUSSIA 24”, “Global review” program staff will take part in the expedition in order to transmit reliable information from the distant Maclay Coast! Follow the news, it is going to be interesting!
In just one day the expedition team checked in two airports: in Qatar and Singapore! It remains only a few hours to the cherished goal – Papua New Guinea!
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 23 april
[icon type=»icon-location»] Port-Morsby
23.04. My first day in Papua New Guinea, Hanuabada village, Motu people.
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 24-25 april
[icon type=»icon-location»] Port-Morsby
This morning, the Maclay expedition visited one of the major villages, founded in 1962 and located near the capital of the Independent State of Papua New Guinea. Although the locals call it a village, according to our measures it is a small town, because the population is about 18 000 people.
Community village Koki is partly located on the shore and partly above water (on piling). It is seldom visited and almost closed to the outside world, but the locals met the expedition team friendly. Look at those happy faces!
After lunch, the Maclay expedition team met with the guys who visited our country in October 2018 as a part of the first delegation from Papua New Guinea in the contemporary history of Russia! Together with the Professor of the University of Papua New Guinea and the teaching staff, they discussed the opening of the Russian Corner at the University of Port Moresby.
We remind that Olga Temple, lecturer at the University, will visit the Maclay Coast as a member of the expedition team to conduct studies there.
April 25, a meeting of the Miklouho-Maclay Foundation Director Nickolay Miklouho-Maclay and Deputy Director of the National Library and Archives of Papua New Guinea Denis Bagelo took place. Long-standing partners discussed the opening of the Russian Corner at this site, which is scheduled for December 2019.
We remind that the officials of the National Library and Archives of Papua New Guinea took the initiative and, during the APEC summit held in November 2018 in Port Moresby, signed an agreement on cooperation with the Miklouho-Maclay Foundation and made an official request to the Miklouho-Maclay Foundation and the Government of the Russian Federation for opening of the Russian Corner on its site in order to spread knowledge about Russian culture.
Visit to one of the outskirts of Port Moresby – Koki community village. 
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 26 april
[icon type=»icon-location»] Port-Morsby
There were some adventures and surprises during the expedition!
Today, April 26, before the flight to Madang, it turned out that one of the Maclay expedition members could not get on board because of lack of empty seats on the plane, although he had the ticket! After we settled this in order to fly all together, we were informed about the flight delay for an hour, and then the flight was completely canceled.
The situation is familiar to us – within the previous expedition in 2017 we spent six days on the road, three of which at the airports, but now, having gained the experience, we spent only six hours to find a way to get to Madang.
So, here the Maclay expedition team is! The weather in Madang is excellent now. In the near future we will buy everything we need for a trip to the Maclay Coast.
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 27 april
[icon type=»icon-location»] Madang
Today, April 27, the Maclay expedition team is preparing for a trip to the Maclay Coast. All day is spent in pleasant efforts – purchase of products in the market of Madang, tobacco, live pig and tuna as a gift to the locals of the Maclay Coast! Gorendu villagers from Maclay Coast came to help the expedition team buy supplies. Also, for the collection replenishing, some items were purchased, which are used in the Sepik river region – the birthplace of the first Prime Minister of Papua New Guinea Michael Somare.
27.04. Madang, the capital of the homonymous province.
Today, I traveled all day in this wonderful town, which struck me with its picturesque and very good-natured, cheerful people. Especially struck by a large market, where the residents of nearby villages bring their products for sale. There is another market with seafood and fish nearby. Madang is full of warm friendly people. The city is quiet and it is possible to move freely. Madang is the second city of the country I visited.
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 28 april
[icon type=»icon-location»] Maclay Coast
The Maclay expedition team 2019 arrived on Maclay Coast!
N.N. Miklouho-Maclay, the leader of the expedition 2019: «We are in the Maclay’s village. The village was entitled in 2017 in honor of the “Miklouho-Maclay XXI century. Maclay Coast” expedition arrival. Asel Tui lives here, he is 77 years old, and he is the fifth generation of Tui — the first local who met Miklouho-Maclay in XIX century. There are a few houses in the Maclay’s village, there only close relatives of Tui live. We gave gifts and prepared our home for a sleep! It’s getting dark at 18:00. Preparing for tomorrow. Excellent mood! Finally I’m here among my friends!»
Reference: Maclay Coast is a part of the North-Eastern coast of New Guinea Island with a coast line about 300 km, between the Astrolabe Bay and the Huon peninsula. The territory was studied by the Russian scientist N.N. Miklouho-Maclay during his long stay on the Island in 1871-1872, 1876-1877, 1883.
Papua New Guinea is often called the «Land of a thousand tongues» — for a linguist, it’s hogheaven! This expedition, for me,is a unique opportunity to catch a glimpse of life in a small
village community on the Rai Coast, where Miklouho-Maclay spent over 3 years almost
150 years ago.
Specifically, I want to study the changes that have inevitably taken place in the Bongu
language over the years. It will be interesting to discover how Bongu lexis reflects the new
realities of modern life, and how the lingua franca, Tok Pisin, as well as English, the
language of education in Papua New Guinea, have influenced the way people
communicate. In 2019, the UN-declared International Year of Indigenous Languages (IYIL),
I also want to assess Bongu literacy levels, and the extent of Bongu use in elementary and primary education.
In addition, I am also planning to collect some data on the traditional Bongu counting concept/ numeral system, used in the past, and now. I am really looking forward to landing on the Miklouho-Maclay Coast!
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 29 april
[icon type=»icon-location»] Maclay Coast
Today we visited Bongu village. In honor of our arrival, they arranged a Grand celebration. They demonstrated their traditional and modern songs and dances. Both young and adult groups performed. The official part was very solemn and showed a long historical connection between Russia and this small nation. On this day, we realized that the ties between Russia and Papua New Guinea are growing stronger.
Today I had a long interview with Asel Tui, the Chief of theTui clan the oldest clan member in the Maclay village. We discussed the list of Bongu words, recorded by Miklouho-Maclay 150 years ago. Many of those words are still used today, but there is also evidence of lexical, semantic, and sound changes that have occurred over the years. For example, according to Asel, the young people tend to pronounce the old words differently, land shorten them. I am looking forward to a longer session with him tomorrow!
Olga Temple is a linguist and lecturer at the University of Papua New Guinea in Port Moresby.
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 30 april
[icon type=»icon-location»] Maclay Coast
On April 30, the Maclay expedition team visited Gumbu and Gorendu villages, where they met with the locals and presented them gifts from Russia. They held a screening of the 36-minutes documentary film “THE MAN FROM THE MOON” for the locals and tasted the same pig presented as a gift and cooked by the locals of the Maclay Coast!
We visited two villages – Gumbu and Gorendu.
In Gumbu, the locals performed their traditional songs and dances. In addition, we had an opportunity to strike several blows on the signal Gong – Barum. Gumbu villagers were very happy to meet us as guests. Then they were shown the 36-minutes documentary film “THE MAN FROM THE MOON”, which has caused enthusiasm on their part.
In Gorendu, the locals prepared for us a solemn feast, for which they cooked a large pig. The food were distributed among the members of the Tui’s family. The expedition members received a treat in the form of well-roasted pieces of the pig. Besides, there were pieces of chicken. As a side dish there was rice, sweet potatoes, yams, taro and bananas. Everything was very tasty cooked. The portions were large. We had this opportunity to appreciate the excellent local cuisine.
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 1-2 may
[icon type=»icon-location»] Maclay Coast
In the first days of May 2019, the Maclay expedition team plunged into the real life of the Maclay Coast locals. «Among other things, we decided to master hunting, fishing and gardening. In order to learn how to fish with a spear on a traditional canoe, which is not very stable and easily flipped, I had to remember the skills being a yachtsman, mastered in childhood,» Nickolay Miklouho-Maclay said.
Gardening is a traditional occupation of the Maclay Coast residents. Unfortunately, corn, which was imported by Miklouho-Maclay in XIX century, is not popular now, but there are batat and yams. Important products are coconut and sugar cane.
This early morning we went deep into the forest for wild pig hunting. Our journey lasted 4.5 hours. The locals showed us how the traps work to catch wild pigs, and also handed us the spears for hunting. There are two types of spear: all-metal and compound with a metal tip and a bamboo shaft. They take dogs going for hunting.
As we came out after the usual time for hunting, we found no pigs in the forest. In addition to wild pigs, the locals also hunt other animals that live in the rainforest.
During the trip we crossed Managate river twice, deepened into the primeval forest Jahundi and had an opportunity to observe Finisterre Range from the top of a hill.
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 3 may
[icon type=»icon-location»] Maclay Coast
Today, May 3, the Maclay expedition team visited the Initiation House (Haus Tambaran). Asel Tui told about the sacraments held in this house. During a week boys learn how to become the best hunter, fisherman and gardener. Parents prepare boys for it in advance. After all training processes is finished and a boy becomes a man, they hold a big celebration .
After then, the Maclay expedition attended a meeting of a branch of the Miklouho-Maclay Society, established for preservation of the culture of the Maclay Coast. At the meeting, the leaders of the villages consulted with Nickolay Miklouho-Maclay on the state of business processes and plans, as the main office is located in Port Moresby. Nickolay set the goal of joint organizational work for the establishing and operating of the Russian Corners in Madang and Port Moresby.
Today, being accompanied by Gorendu village chief Asel Tui, we visited a sacred place in the forest near the Coast, where a hut for conducting Initiation ceremonies was located until recently.
Male Initiation is carried out in December, after which the hut is dismantled until the next time. Despite the absence of the hut, access to this sacred site is still denied to women and uninitiated youths. It is a repository of male power. The age for Initiation into a Man of community is 14-18 years, after which the person moves to the Man’s house and gets the right for marriage. According to Asel Tui, boys start a family not earlier than 25 years, and girls not earlier than 18 years. The wedding takes place only after obtaining the consent of the parents of both sides.
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 4 may
[icon type=»icon-location»] Maclay Coast
Today the «Miklouho-Maclay XXI century. Maclay Coast» expedition 2019 team left the Maclay Coast and headed to Madang, and then to the capital of the Independent State of Papua New Guinea. Saying goodbye to the smiling locals, Nickolay Miklouho-Maclay visited the Memorial of his Great ancestor.
Studies on the Coast is over, but there is a lot of new and interesting events!
Follow our news!
Gorendu villagers are still engaged in agriculture, fishing and hunting, as well as their ancestors. As in the last century, agriculture plays a dominant role. They grow a variety of roots vegetables, several sorts of each of them. This is their basic diet.
Strong household structure is the key to the preservation of certain elements of the traditional life style. Agriculture is the basis of the way of life of most people in New Guinea and often leads to demographic changes. Thus, four hundred years ago, the introduction of batat in the Highlands in New Guinea led to the significant increase in population, the settlement of higher areas of the Highlands and a change in culture.
[icon type=»icon-calendar»] 5 may
[icon type=»icon-location»] BIl-Bil village
May 5, 2019, Maclay expedition visited Bil-Bil village, which has long been famous for its pottery — pots are still handmade without using of a Potter’s wheel. Nickolay Mikloukho-Maclay mastered this art and made three pots.
Nikolay Nikolaevich Miklouho-Maclay in XIX century visited the Island, where about 200 people lived. Later, the population moved to the Coast, where it is still located. The locals warmly welcomed the Maclay expedition and invited to visit the Island and the place where Miklouho-Maclay’s hut was located, in a picturesque place overlooking the Bismark sea. They showed the initiation houses and sacred places of men, which are prohibited for women to visit. According to the locals, boys undergo the process of initiation within 1-3 months. 150 years ago, since the first visit of Miklouho-Maclay, the children were named in his honor. This tradition is still preserved. After the expedition 2017, several children were also named after Maclay.
We visited Bil-Bil village, located opposite a small island of the same name. The people living in this settlement speak one of the Austronesian languages. Currently, there are 1-3 thousand people. In the past, when Bilbil villagers lived on their home island, they were actively trading with many villages on the North-East coast of New Guinea. They were famous as talented potters. Their pots were very popular in most areas of the coast of Astrolabe Bay. They transported their products on large single-masted or two-masted vessels. They exchanged their pots, as well as marine resources, for agricultural products and other necessary goods from New Guinea villagers. In early XX century, after the rebellions against German colonial administration, Bil-Bil villagers were moved from the Island to the opposite Coastof New Guinea, where they live to this day. The tradition of making clay pots is alive and today is the main part of their income when interacting with tourists. In addition, these pots are still popular among residents of other villages in the North-East of New Guinea, in particular, in Gorendu village. Bil-Bil villagers also preserve their traditional culture. Thou, there are no permanent population, the locals still execute the Initiation ceremonies. The memory about Miklouho-Maclay is also well preserved by the villagers.
